Burst pipe response
Answered any hour. Shut the main first, then call.
A small village with a lot of property around it that sits empty for stretches — second homes, places between owners, houses whose heat gets turned down in January. Empty and cold is how most burst pipes start.
A pipe does not burst because it freezes. It bursts because the ice plug expands and traps water between itself and a closed tap, and the pressure in that trapped section has nowhere to go. That is why the split often appears somewhere away from the frozen section entirely.
In an occupied house, water moves constantly and somebody notices the cold spot. In an empty one, nothing moves, nobody notices, and the first sign is water running out from under a door — potentially weeks later, in a house nobody is visiting.
That is the whole case for shutting the water off properly rather than turning the thermostat down and hoping.
There are two levels, and which you need depends on how long and how cold.
Away for a week or two, heat staying on: shut the main water valve and open a tap on the lowest level to relieve pressure. If the heat fails while you are gone, the system is not pressurised and the damage from a freeze is a fraction of what it would be.
Empty for the season, or heat off: that is a full winterisation. The main gets shut and the system drained, traps get protected, and the water heater is dealt with. That is a job worth having done properly, because a half-drained system with water sitting in a low run is arguably worse than one left full.
If you have a tap producing nothing and you suspect ice, the important thing is what you do next. Open the tap that the frozen section feeds, so meltwater has somewhere to go and pressure cannot build. Do not use a naked flame — that is how houses burn down, and it can turn trapped water to steam and split the pipe outright. Gentle warmth, applied along the pipe starting from the tap end and working back, is the safe method.
And find your main shut-off before you start, not after. If the pipe has already split, the moment the ice melts you will need it.
Seasonal by nature — the calls here cluster in January and again at the first thaw.
Answered any hour. Shut the main first, then call.
The split is often not where the ice was. We find it.
Worth finding out yours works before the night you need it.
Draining and restarting properly when a house comes back into use.
Depends how long, and whether the heat stays on. A week or two with heating running: shut the main valve and open a tap on the lowest floor to release pressure. Empty for the season, or heat off entirely: that is a full drain-down, including the traps and the water heater.
Open the tap that the frozen section feeds, so melting water has somewhere to go and pressure cannot build behind the ice. Then apply gentle warmth along the pipe, starting at the tap end and working back. Find your main shut-off before you start, not after.
Not from ice pushing on the pipe wall, which is what most people assume. As the plug grows it pushes water ahead of it toward a closed tap, and that trapped section has nowhere to expand. That is why the split often appears well away from where the pipe actually froze.
No. It causes a meaningful number of house fires every winter, and it can flash trapped water to steam and split the pipe outright — turning a frozen pipe into a burst one in seconds. Gentle, sustained warmth is what works. If you cannot reach it safely, that is a call rather than a project.
In winter, yes, and it takes ten minutes. Shut the main and open a low tap. The downside is nil, and the upside is that a heating failure or a burst hose while you are away becomes a puddle rather than a week of water running into your house.
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